Hyderabad – Past And Present
The Untold Charminar -Reviewed By Asif Noorani
Way back in 1954 when I greeted a grand old lady, who had migrated to Karachi from what used to be Hyderabad Deccan, with the customary Assalam Alaikum, I was admonished for my ‘bad manners’. She reminded me that I was not her age, which was why I was supposed to say Aadab and bend my neck slightly.
That was the Hyderabadi tehzeeb (a combination of good manners and courtesies). A recently published collection of writings Hyderabad: An Untold Charminar, imaginatively compiled and intelligently edited by Syeda Imam, has much more to say on the subject. The old-worldly charm in Hyderabad co-exists with the great strides that the city has taken in becoming a high profile IT city, which is why it has been nicknamed Cyberabad.
It’s a city that attracts technocrats from all over India, but then that’s nothing new for in the glorious days of the Nizam, Men of letters and those who could boast of accomplishments in other cultural fields were attracted by the monarch, who enjoyed more power and riches than any other head of a princely state in British India.
Those who settled down in Hyderabad were amply rewarded in terms of respect and material gains alike. Not all of them returned to their native cities. Nowhere is this more evident than in the case of Urdu poets. Dagh, Fani, Ameer Minai and Josh which are just four names that come to this reviewer’s mind.
One cannot help recall the exciting piece on the mushairas by the bilingual Isaac Sequeira. While the popularity of these engrossing and interactive poetry concerts, very different from the ones held in any other language, has continued unabated in Hyderabad, here in Pakistan mushairas have become extinct. Sequeira claims that even the semi-literate enjoy the poetry sessions in much the same way as the English speaking opera-buffs love the opera, which has Italian or German.
Hyderabad’s Osmania University had a well equipped, in terms of men and material, bureau of translation and compilation, which coined suitable scientific and socio-political terms in Urdu. It was also, until the birth of Pakistan, the only university to have Urdu as a medium of instruction even up to post-graduation level, which was not to mean that Telegu, the language of the majority outside the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad was neglected.
In fact Dakhani, the local dialect of Urdu, was a mixture of Marathi, Telegu and Arabic. So, when a Hyderabadi speaks the language in a typical sing-song manner the Urdu speakers from the north can be sure that they will hear some unfamiliar words.
The volume under review informs its readers that Quli Qutub Shah, the founder of Hyderabad, composed 50,000 lines in Telegu, Dakhini and Urdu (‘when the language had not even acquired the name’). That was sometime near the end of the 16th century and in the beginning of the 17th.
Hyderabadi cuisine, as discussed in much detail by Zuju Shareef, titillates the taste buds of Hyderabadis and non-Hyderabadis alike. Hyderabad Colony in Karachi, particularly during Ramazan, shows a glimpse of the culinary variety that is the hallmark of what was once the largest princely state in the subcontinent, until it was invaded by the Indian army on September 12, 1948 and not September 13, as Shyam Benegal writes in his otherwise fine piece.
Benegal also wrongly states the day Mr Jinnah passed away — instead of 11th, he writes 13th. In fact the Indians chose to catch the Hyderabadis unaware, which was why they sent their army a day after the Muslim leader died.
The diversity in Hyderabad of cultures, cuisine, languages and religions was rare and continues to be so. It is in this context that you enjoy reading the write-up on the Parsis by Yezdyar S. Kaosji about this miniscule community.
But then not everyone would sympathise with the Nizams for they had ganged up with the colonial power against the freedom fighters Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. They were more than amply rewarded by the East India Company for what would seem to most of us an act of treachery.
The diversity in Hyderabad of cultures, cuisine, languages and religions was rare and continues to be so. It is in this context that you enjoy reading the write-up on the Parsis by Yezdyar S. Kaosji about this miniscule community. Though only 0.08 per cent (1224 in absolute terms), the Parsis have left indelible marks in different fields.
In another riveting piece, Javeed Alam makes two observations, the vanishing of cycle rickshaws, which have been largely replaced by motorised three-wheelers, and the greater numbers of burqas that one gets to see in the city which has something like one-third Muslims. The writer says quite convincingly that it is indicative of the fact that more and more Muslim women are now leaving the confines of their homes. ‘20 years ago not many lower-middle-class Muslim women were educated or employed. They rarely stepped out of their homes or beyond the circles of relatives… What we see as the increase in the visibility of the burqa are these women out in the public sphere, educating themselves and working in sectors of the economy which were completely hidden from their view two decades ago,’ claims Alam.
Ismat Mehdi profiles some great people who have played important roles in the development of Hyderabad, starting from its founder Quli Qutub Shah to the Nightingale of the East, Sarojini Naidu. The write-up tells us as much about these eminent people as it throws light on the state in their periods.
An excerpt — Mian Captain Banoge — from Harsha Bhogle’s book on the son of the Hyderabadi soil, the great Test cricketer Azharuddin shows some endearing traits of the man who played
99 Tests for his country. The most notable being his modesty.
Anees Jung, on the other hand, writes about a Hyderabadi whose popularity was restricted to the city and whose pickles were the rage of the day. She almost chronicles his life and shows how people-to-people contact cuts across religious boundaries. An eminent Hyderabadi poet Shaz Tamkanat had composed a few lines on the plight of Ramlu when he became blind and deaf. These are included in Jung’s piece.
While on poems, the volume carries translations of the best known Urdu poet from Hyderabad, Makhdoom Mohiuddin and also some scintillating verses of Sarojini Naidu, whose letters have also been reproduced.
Syeda Imam also includes a translation of a Wajda Tabassum’s early short story Utran. Sadly, the Hyderabadi writer did not live up to her earlier promise. In her attempt to be bold like Ismat Chughtai, she ended up writing stories which sometimes bordered on soft core pornography. Jeelani Bano would have been a better choice.
Syed Sirajuddin in his excellent piece, For Better and for Verse, discusses the development of Urdu in Hyderabad and quotes profusely from eminent and not so well known poets. One person we Pakistanis don’t seem to know hardly anything about is Maharaja Kishen Pershad. He was ‘many things in the Hyderabadi literary world, a patron and practitioner, who represented the confluence of Muslim and Hindu, aristocrat and dervish… A prolific writer, he produced some 60 books and held court in a literary salon where even the great poet Iqbal came…’
Due to constraints of space, one cannot comment on all the pieces that appear in the volume, but Omkar Goswami’s narration about the recent changes occurring in Hyderabad, thanks largely to the untiring efforts of Chandrababu Naidu, makes compulsory reading.
How the man attracted foreign investment, got grants from New Delhi, forced people to work hard and made the city shed its grime is worth knowing about. Hyderabad is now more prosperous than it was before Naidu appeared on the scene. The city is ‘inundated with shopping malls’ and thanks to its people’s prosperity the plazas are choc a bloc with buyers.
It’s heartening to see that Hyderabad is once again in the limelight.
The Untold Charminar
By Syeda Imam
Penguin books, India
Available with Paramount Books, Karachi
ISBN 978-0-143-10370-7
335pp. Rs798
I’ve been to Hyderabad and besides the Char-minar, enjoyed visiting the Salar Jung Museum and the Golconda fort.
Being an automobile buff, I also enjoyed going to a unique car museum ( http://www.sudhacars.net/ ).
As for the cuisine, I enjoyed what could have easily been gaajar ka halwaa, but had been made using coconuts instead of carrots.
THE GLORIOUS PAST OF TELANGANA
People take great pride in being Hyderabadi. Though! It has come to mean has changed over time. The distinctness of Telugu-Urdu mixed language, culture, manners, cuisine, etc made the province a special place of peace and prosperity. No doubt the Hyderabadi’s are irrelevantly labeled as Nawabi cultured and Nawabi thoughts. Irrespective of cast and creed, it is because in the past, India had had no native state as rich, potent and extensive as Hyderabad, which was about the size of the United Kingdom and bigger than France. One will be rather astonished, the Nizam state was so rich that then Indian [Hindustani] currency was consequently as poor as Nizams 16-00 {Halee Rupyyah}was equaled to Hindustani Rupees 100/00
One of the living legends of the glorious past of Hyderabad is 95 years old Moughal Princes Begum Sahiba Laila Ummahani to whom I [ Nawabzada Shajee Nawab] have the honor of being her direct descendant and fourth son of the royal family; Her highness renowned and distinguished contribution to the Hindu-Muslim United culture of Telangana cause is unraveled.
The following information’s are from the part of her beautiful memories and forgotten lure of Hyderabadi culture, based on her remembrance. The purpose of this article is to give a few insinuation to the young Telanganites of their glorious past, because, it is observed that mindset of new generation is anomalous about Nizam of Hyderabad. There is a lot of bitterness driven primarily by ignorance regarding the Nizam of Hyderabad, and the Telanganites and their past by The Andhrawala’s to spread the seeds of hatred among the communities. Though it is a very emotive issue, much like many Telanganites think. By most accounts, “His Exalted Highness” the Nizam of Hyderabad was a benevolent ruler who promoted education, science and development. He spent about one-tenth of his Principality’s budget on education, and even made primary education compulsory and free for the poor. In his 37-year rule, Hyderabad witnessed the introduction of electricity, railways, roads, irrigation projects and sweet water resources for his people, and many more important developments were carried out during his tenure. Among His contributions are; Universities – Apart from Osmania He also Helped Aligarh Muslim University and Banaras Hindu University. Many other Institutions Hospital for Poor (Osmania Hospital the first free Hospital for poor in the world by Osman Ali Pasha 7th Nizam) Reservoir: Husain Sager lake (now AP government has made it sewerage tank of the City) which was once supplied drinking water to Secundrabad. Himmayat Sager and Gandipet built in 1910 still used for drinking purpose. The High Court, Assembly of AP. Osmania Library is now turned as rubbish mangligio. Hundreds of other Buildings were used and destroyed by the present AP government which was the heritage of our culture. Railways and Roads Infrastructure were used for more than 50 Years before upgrading it
1. Nizams dominion and his various engagements are not familiar to the new generation, a number of brilliant Hindu’s from Madras, Mysore and Bengal were employed, acquired very important posts. One among them was Babu Madhusudhan Chaterjee. He was the MINT MASTER of Nizams mint, for Osmania sikka [Coins]. He was a highly competent authority and was very close advisor to the Nizam
The annexation of Hyderabad by military action in 1948 was swift and efficient bustle. Nizam’s troops led by General Aidroos, who in fact expressed his grave concerned, pounded no words in saying that how imprudent it was, to join hands with ill-equipped ‘Razakar’s, their batons, swords, and ancient guns that too were in no condition to put up any bit of resistance, and fight against the Massive Indian Army. One must understand the difficult history and the consequences the Telangana faced. The Muslim claims that there was a legitimate question of the choice left for Nizam had had, He was guaranteed through historic treatises with the Crown, and the Standstill Agreement signed with the newly formed Indian Union and Agreement signed by the Nizam, He was allowed to take time to think, and decide independently of what course of action to be taken. This included, to be remained an independent state or not accede to the Indian Union.
It is said, that Valla Bhai Patel was a visionary and indeed was an iron man of India. Nizam was mere the ruler of princely state of Hyderabad while Patel was part of the ruling clique of the country who had just attained independence. Both did their own calculations. Nizam tried to keep Hyderabad as an independent state while Patel’s job was to unify India. Patel tried his intelligence and played every trick, and then in Nehru’s absence launched Operation Polo, while Nizam strategically failed to garner material and men to support him in time of war. The ill equipped army with non regular’s Razakars [Volunteers] was never any match for the well trained and equipped Indian army; as a result Nizam lost the battle, mandatory surrendered to Indian army. Politically he lost on the chessboard of politics, and could not defend his nation, as it was his by right to fight, it is not an act of treason or swindle. And at the conclusion neither of them was wrong, one was not wrong for defending his kingdom and the other was not wrong with the intension and vision of unifying India. Patel was an agile mind, gigantic visionary, who left no stone unturned to unite India, which none of his contemporaries would have ever been able to achieve in such a mere little time, and was no comparison with his counterpart. Had it not been for Patel, we would not have seen a united India.
Hyderabad was a multi-cultural piece of land, consisting, Hindu institutions, Islamic institutions, Gurudwara sahib’s, magnificent temples, churches, Parsee temple [Ramnager Hyderabad] and magnificent Masjid’s
Eids, Sankrati [known as Til sankhrath] Holee, and Dasera, Moharam [Peerla Panduga], Shiv-ratri, Eid-e-nov rouz, Bonalu, Christ-mass, and Good Friday were the national festivals of Hyderabad. The Moharam and Bonalu were the main attraction of all the festivals. Processions with the bejeweled elephants were the core attraction for the Telanganites Hyderabad.
They Hindu Yadav’s community use to carry out bejeweled Bibi ka Alum which incur on 10th Moharam (Peerla Panduga) every year, and till date, no other community other than Yadav’s carries 12 Alums ahead of Bibi ka Alum’s Bejeweled elephant. It is also Hick hock story narrated by the old folks (elders) that before the dooms day, unintentionally, the Yadav community will not be performing their rituals of Bibi Ka alum.
Peerla Panduga [Bibi Ka Alum] is the existing witnessed of multi cultural ethics and ethnics of Telanganites. The Nazur and Nazrana to the Alum was presented at Dar us shifa by then Prime Minister of Nizam state Maharaja Krishnan Prasad, Jagirdars, Nawabs, Raja’s use to garland the Alum individually, the tradition is currently replaced by the MP or MLA. The Peerla Punduga is existed and organized in almost all the district of Telangana, is a reminder, importance of brotherhood, religious unionism of different religious and communities.
Like Bibi Ka Alum, same kinds of presentations were adorned at the Bonalu Panduga irrespective of caste and creed. The exquisitely decorated elephants and ghatams of Mahankali temples of Lal Darwaza, Uppuguda, Gowlipura, Alijah Kotla, Murad Mahal, Mir Alam Mandi, Sultan Shahi’s Jagadamba temple, Bela Muthyalamma temple’s and Akkanna Madanna temple of Hari Bowli, Kashi Vishvanath temple of Shah ali Bunda, Jagadamba temple of Sultanshahi, Mysamma temple’s of Shalibanda, Alijah Kotla and Gowlipura, and Sultanshahi, Darbar Mysamma of Aliabad and Mutyalamma temple of Chandulal Baradari, were carried out on bejeweled decorated elephants led by Prime minister Maharaja Krishan Prasad, Raja Bujrang Prasad, Raja Rae Rumba, Raja Kishwari lal, Raj Chandu Lal, were peaceful processions led by caparisoned elephant belonging to Akkanna Madanna temple of Hari Bowli, these elephants were granted munsub [Salary]by the nizam. Nizam also constructed the Chandrayan gutta Minder from his serfekas mubarak. [Nizams treasury]
Nizam also attributed 30 acre’s land for the Parsi fire temple at Parsigutta Ramnager. The Parsi temples of Secundrabad are the living example of Nizams broad religious-spectrum.
St. Joseph Church, St. Xavior, St. Peter churches of Secundrabad and Holy Merry church of gun foundry, Methodist church of Abids were constructed by the Christian community along with Nizams grants. The Narayanguda, Chikadapally trinity churches are also accommodated the grants of Nizam. Cavalry Barracks of Secundrabad is the sign of Christians dominated Nizams army.
By his privy purses, he constructed Ameerpet gurudwara saheb and contributed a large amount on the construction of Gowlipura Gurudwara Saheb and Gurudwara saheb of Afzal gunj, Nanded was the hub and most important place of Gurudwara saheb’s during the Nizam’s tenure. Nizam personally attended Grunth saheb ceremony at Nanded in 1934. The Yellow turban Sikh’s are the living leegendry and identity of Sikh regiment of Nizam State.
Hindu, Muslim Sikh, Christian, Parsee, Ka-yusth, were the buds of this lovely regime, that was a model and symbol of peace & friendship, religious tolerance and love and prosperity to all. The impartial Hyderabadi’s has never considered that it would get hatred in exchange from the Andhrite. The country and its rulers never made a fraction of difference between Muslims & non-Muslims.
The present day generation may not be familiar that Swami Vivekananda’s visited Nizam state [Hyderabad city] on February 10, 1893, and stayed in the Royal guest house as the first VIP. From the erstwhile pre-independent HINDUSTAN
On February 13th 1893 before leaving for Chicago, He addressed the Nizams parliament on common religious factors. More than 500 prominent dignitaries welcomed him at the Railway station, including powerful Nobles, Jagirdars and Nawab’s,and most powerful of all Nawab Sikandar Jung a prominent noble auspiciously garlanded him at the railway station. Swamiji addressed a public meeting at famous Mehaboob College secundrabad the next day. In his eloquent speech, he not only spoke on Hinduism but also contributed a large enthusiasm towards Islam, and Christianity giving an excellent exposition of their tenets. Maharaja Sir Krishan Prasad, the then Prime Minister of Nizam state, was so impressed by his lectures that he offered to meet all expenses of his to and fro travel. The offered was followed by a large number of Muslim Nawabs also. They offered financial assistance for his trip to USA but his esteemed Swamiji politely declined to accept it. Only saying {Very many thanks for the kind generosity] Swamiji greatly appreciated the generosity offered by the Hyderabadi Hindu’s and Muslims. He visited Mecca Masjid, Charminar, falaknuma palace, historic Golconda fort, Salarjung palace, the tomb of Baba Sharfuddin, [Pahadi shareef] Chandrayangutta Mandir, Mata ki Khidki temples, and also visited St.Jeoseph Church of Secundrabad. All sections of society gave him stimulating receptions at all these places; it was a unique event in the history of Nizam state. Swamiji’s addressed numerous public meetings. His marvelous and eloquent English and mastery grasp of the subject brought him consent praise from people of all religious personalities.
The well known photographer Raja Deen Dayal [Secundrabad] is the living legend for the entire Nizam regime‘s photographs and the royal families like Maharaja Krishan Prasad, Maharaja Mahboob Prasad, Raja Ray Venkatarama Reddy “Kotwal” Raja Rammu Prasad, there are more than ten thousand photograph of Raja, Maharaja’s, Jagirdars, and nawab’s of different caliber with his studio in Secundrabad. Among the most noted and competent is Nawab Ali Nawaz Jung Bahadur for his erudite services and his resources, constructions of irrigation projects, sweet water Dam’s like Nagarjuna sager, Nizam-sager, Ali-sager, Hussain-sager, Osman-sager, Himayath-sager, and so of Khan Badur Nawab Tipu Khan who saved the lives of scores of Dhobee’s[ cloth washer] that were washed away regularly while crossing the river, by constructing a bridge over Musi river at the sangum which is known as TIPU KHAN BRIDGE. [Here it would be healthier to mention that Khan Bahadur Nawab Tippu Khan is my great grand-father.]
Nizam’s army was consist of 1st Hyderabad Infantry , 2nd Sikh Infantry, Sikh regiment, 1st Lancers and 5th Infantry ,Chawoosh of Barkas, 03 Cavalry barracks of Christian and Hindu’s mix regiment, Deccan infantry of Maratha’s, regiment, Pathan and Pakhtoons, and mixed infantries. The previous one company of Kumaonis, the company of Jats/Sikh’s, the company of mixed community and the company of Ahirs were merged and were declared only his remained strength at the time of Police action.
The most important of all the gratitude’s to Nizam, due to his impartial attitude, after the fall of his governance, The He received the ceremonial post of Rajpramukh in 1950, but He resigned from this office when the states were re-organized in 1956 on linguistic basis and large parts of Hyderabad state went to Maharashtra [Bombay state] against the Fazle Ali commissions report and the merger of Andhra with Telangana
[The remaining story of Nizam unique way of collection will be released soon]Insha-Allah
NAWABZADA SHAJEE NAWAB